Monday, March 10, 2014

Jaan (Singapore, SINGAPORE) ★★★★☆

The news of André Chiang leaving Jaan to open his namesake restaurant André in 2010 left the Jaan faithfuls shocked and skeptical about the future of the restaurant. Then it came new Chef de Cuisine Julien Royer. Not only has he helped the restaurant to re-establish its position in the culinary scene of Singapore, his creative fair is quietly leading Jaan to new heights.



When everyone talks about Jaan, it always starts with its breathtaking view of the city.



Apart from the magnificent view from Level 70 of the Equinox Complex, Jaan also possesses one of the city's most elegant dining room.



Other than an extensive a la carte menu, the restaurant offers a seasonal 5-course tasting menu for SGD198, a 7-course degustation menu for SGD238 and a 10-course degustation menu for SGD298. We ended up ordering the 7-course set.

A trio of nibbles started our night off in dramatic fashion. A crispy pastry with chicken and yoghurt, a sponge cake with eel fish and a cheese cracker helped to set the stage for a wonderful evening. 

A second nibble arrived in a tiny glass bottle. It was a Landes foie gras mousse with some simple green garnish.



A further amuse bouche, a porcini mushroom tea with Iberico ham, chestnut and rice cracker rounded out a wonderful display of small bites (7/10).

 


The much anticipated dinner finally began and our first starter was an ocean themed dish that was presented like a sashimi platter. 

The seafood composition included a hamachi, ebi, scallop with ‘oscietra’ caviar, oyster, salmon roes and lastly some fresh crab meat all served in a light yuzu dressing (6/10).



The second course, The Beetroot Collection, provided different textures of beetroot including a beetroot ice-cream, slices of poached beetroot, some beetroot flavored meringue and finally a beetroot confit. The burrata ‘artigiana’, honeycomb and blackberry provided the much needed flavors to bring this dish to another level (7.5/10).




The house specialty, 55’ Rosemary smoked organic egg, was next. Talk about knowing how to make an entrance!


Our server brought out what looked like an ordinary egg container with two organic eggs on top. It all looked rather visually stunning with the special effects provided by the dry ice.



The eggs were both poached precisely at 64 degree for 55 minutes before being served. They were poured into our glass containers on top of a bed of ratte potato, chorizo iberico and buckwheat.

I had a similar dish back in Hong Kong at The Principal but this one was enhanced by the "smoking" effects with rosemary right underneath the container. That's a very unique combination of flavors and textures (7.5/10).




Our next dish was a grilled Landres foie gras served with Victoria pineapple and vadouvan spices. This was slightly disappointing considering that the foie gras not as flavorful as we hoped (5/10).

 

Moving onto our fish dish, here we have a grilled Atlantic brill "Tournedos" with Vichyssoise and crayfish. The seasoning had a lot of Asian influences in it but it's a touch too spicy for the brill fish to handle (5/10).



The final dish before dessert was our meat course - pigeon "plouneour". The pigeon was roasted in hay and served with barley, winter mushrooms and vin jaune.

I liked the pigeon meat for its super tender texture and flavorful taste. The hay provided just enough aroma to add another dimension to this already terrific dish (7/10).


 

We didn't want dinner to finish so soon but yet we were already down to our final course. Luckily, we still had a pre-dessert before the real dessert came.

If it was the chef's idea to reset our palates before dessert, then he has achieved his point with this orange sorbet with citrus fruit and orange zest. Very sour!



Now the inevitable - our dessert as the final course of our 7-course tasting menu and it's called the "choconuts tart". From the name itself, we knew that chocolate and nuts would play a prominent role in this one.

Different textures of chocolate were presented here including chocolate bread, chocolate cracker, chocolate fudge, chocolate mousse and last but not least chocolate ice-cream and it was finished with a strong hazelnut praline cream. That was a really heavy dessert (6.5/10).



Finally, a cup of coffee and petite fours before we said goodbye to this wonderful meal. We were a little bit full but who could resist a chocolate ice-cream lollipop? 




This was definitely the best meal we had on this trip without question.



Before we left the Equinox Complex, we took some time to check out the panoramic view of the city from the adjacent Equinox Restaurant. That was a jaw-dropping view from the window. Too bad we had just one more day in Singapore before heading to Bali.



Food Rating: 7/10 
Price: $$$$
Address: Level 70, Equinox Complex, Swissotel The Stamford, Singapore 
Closest Metro Station: City Hall 
Tel: +65 6837-3322 
Website: www.jaan.com.sg 
S. Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants: 100th (2014) 
S. Pellegrino Asia's 50 Best Restaurants: 17th (2013)


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